Between sizes in jeans? How to tell, and which way to go

The three kinds of "between sizes"

When people say they're between sizes, they usually mean one of three different things. Each one has a different fix.

First, check you're really between

Before you decide, make sure the numbers are right. Re-measure your natural waist and the fullest part of your hips over thin clothing, keeping the tape level (our measuring guide walks through it). A tape that dips at the back can easily add an inch.

Then check what the size chart measures. If it lists the jeans themselves (garment measurements), you need the jeans to be at least your size in low-stretch denim. If it lists body measurements, you can compare directly. Mixing the two up is the most common reason people think they're between sizes when they aren't.

Let the fabric decide

The amount of stretch in the denim is the single biggest factor in whether to size up or down.

When the brand doesn't say, look at the fabric details and the product description, or read the fit notes for words like "relaxes with wear" or "true to size."

When your waist and hips point to different sizes

This is the curvy-shape version of being between sizes, and the answer is almost always to follow your hips. Here's why: a waist that's a little roomy can be taken in by a belt, a shaped waistband or a tailor. Hips that are too tight can't be fixed. They pull, ride down, wrinkle and make sitting uncomfortable.

The exception is if your waist is larger relative to your hips than the chart assumes. Then follow your waist, and expect a little ease through the hips and seat. In a wide-leg cut that ease usually looks relaxed and intentional.

If you size for your hips and the waist gaps at the back, that's a pattern issue, not a sizing mistake. This guide to the waist gap explains what to look for.

A quick way to decide

1. Is the hip in the smaller size at least your hip measurement? If not, size up. Stop here.
2. Is the fabric very stretchy and known to relax? If yes, the smaller size is usually the better bet.
3. Is it low-stretch or shape-holding? Size up.
4. Still torn? Try both, sit in both, and keep the one you forget you're wearing.

Trying two sizes without the hassle

Ordering two sizes is the most reliable way to settle it, as long as the return policy makes it easy. Before you do, check three things: how long you have to return, whether you pay for return shipping, and what condition the jeans must be in. Try both pairs on the same day, with the same shoes, and give each one the sit-down test before you decide.

Keep the tags on and wear them only indoors on a clean floor until you've decided, so the pair you send back still qualifies for a refund.

Signs you picked the wrong one

Sometimes you only find out after an afternoon at home. Here's how to read the signs before you take the tags off:

If both sizes show signs from different columns, for example the smaller one is tight at the hips and the bigger one loose at the waist, the problem is the cut rather than the size. How jeans should fit explains what to look for instead.